Historical silk: a novel method to evaluate degumming with non-invasive infrared spectroscopy and spectral deconvolution

: To correctly manage a collection of historical silks, it is important to detect if the yarn has been originally subjected to degumming. This process is generally applied to eliminate sericin; the obtained fiber is named soft silk, in contrast with hard silk which is unprocessed. The distinction between hard and soft silk gives both historical information and useful indications for informed conservation. With this aim, 32 samples of silk textiles from traditional Japanese samurai armors (15th-20th century) were characterized in a non-invasive way. ATR-FTIR spectroscopy has been previously used to detect hard silk, but data interpretation is challenging. To overcome this difficulty, an innovative analytical protocol based on external reflection FTIR (ER-FTIR) spectroscopy was employed, coupled with spectral deconvolution and multivariate data analysis. The ER-FTIR technique is rapid, portable, and widely employed in the cultural heritage field, but rarely applied to the study of textiles. The ER-FTIR band assignment for silk was discussed for the first time. Then, the evaluation of the OH stretching signals allowed for a reliable distinction between hard and soft silk. Such an innovative point of view, which exploits a "weakness" of FTIR spectroscopy-the strong absorption from water molecules-to indirectly obtain the results, can have industrial applications too.